Concrete Impulse: Avennia Oliane and Gravura
Fellow wine lovers, I am doing some cleanup in my personal wine storage and realize one certain fact: I have more wine from Avennia in my personal collection than I do from any other winery. Most of it being their “Oliane” Sauvignon Blanc and “Gravura” Bordeaux. I suppose it should come as no surprise, as these are some of best and most reliable Washington wines for under $40. Avennia continues to be at the forefront of this state’s best; truly a flagship for our industry. If someone asked me to name a handful of wineries which exemplify Washington wines, Avennia would no doubt be among them.
Avennia 2014 “Oliane” Sauvignon Blanc $27.99
The Oliane Sauvignon Blanc is done in a truly crowd pleasing style. Aged in 10% new French oak barrels, it has hints of those vanilla and toast characteristics which regular Chardonnay lovers can appreciate. The rest is aged in 75% neutral oak, and 15% concrete tank maintains freshness and imbues a sense of minerality. If you haven’t come across wines aged in concrete yet, you will. The use of concrete has grown exponentially, among top Washington wineries, in recent years. It harkens back to times of antiquity when wines were most often aged in earthen vessels, such as concrete, clay, and terracotta. When I worked at Matthews back in 2006, we had some of the first concrete tanks brought into the state, and used them to make the likes of Viognier and Sauvignon Blanc with excellent results. From that experience I can tell you that I’m a fan of the technique.
The 2014 Avennia Oliane received 92 points from Jeb Dunnuck of Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate, which is considered rather impressive for a white wine. He refers to it as being, “racy and lively,” and I couldn't agree more. It’s fresh and aromatic on the nose with hints of lemon oil, guava, and a hint of straw. The palate is medium-full bodied, for a Sauvignon Blanc, and has flavors of grapefruit, yellow apple, hints of pineapple, and a bit of a creamy texture accompanied by toasty notes of fresh baked bread. It finishes with a quality of wet stone and crisp acidity. The Avennia Oliane Sauvignon Blanc is sourced from two of the top vineyards Washington state, Boushey and Red Willow.
Region: Yakima Valley AVA, Washington State Wine
Vineyard(s): Boushey and Red Willow Vineyards
Grape(s): Sauvignon Blanc
Aging: 15% Concrete Tank, 10% New French Oak and 75% Neutral French Oak Barrels
Drinkability: Now through 2018
Body: Medium-Full
Alcohol: 13% by volume
Drink This if you Like: Efeste Feral or Sauvage, DeLille Chaleur Estate Blanc, Pouilly-Fumé, Bordeaux Blanc
Press: 92 Points from Jeb Dunnuck of Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate
Food Pairings: Oysters, Dishes with Truffles and Garlic, Pizza and Pasta Made with White Sauce
Production: 390
Avennia 2013 “Gravura” Bordeaux Red $34.99
The Avennia 2013 Gravura was named “Editor’s Choice” by Wine Enthusiast Magazine, where Sean Sullivan gives it 92 points and calls it, “nuanced, supremely well balanced...impeccable”. It’s a blend of 47% Cabernet Sauvignon, 44% Merlot, and 9% Cabernet Franc aged for 20 months in 50% new French oak barrels. Again sourced from some of my favorite vineyards in the state- Bacchus, Dionysus, Red Willow, Klipsun, and Boushey Vineyards. This is easily my go-to red wine for all occasions and all people. It’s no exaggeration when I say that the vast majority of people whom I have turned towards the Gravura have been gushingly pleased with it. This wine really over delivers, and it has a surprising penchant for opening up and evolving for several hours after uncorking.
It starts out just slightly tight, but begins to open up rather quickly with a nose full of dark berries and hints of cedar and herb. The palate is supremely balanced with medium-full body and nicely integrated oak and tannin structure. It shows flavors of black cherry and blackberry, hints of coffee and cassis, a touch of thyme, afterthoughts of graphite and smoke, and just a bit of leather. Certainly worthy of aging in the bottle for another 5 or 10 years, as well decanting, especially if opened younger.
Region: Columbia Valley AVA, Washington State Wine
Vineyard(s): Bacchus, Dionysus, Red Willow, Klipsun, and Boushey Vineyards
Grape(s): 47% Cabernet Sauvignon, 44% Merlot, and 9% Cabernet Franc
Aging: 20 Months in 50% New French Oak Barrels
Drinkability: Now through 2023
Body: Medium-Full
Alcohol: 14% by volume
Drink This if you Like: DeLille D2, Mark Ryan Dissident
Press: 92 Points from Sean Sullivan of Wine Enthusiast Magazine 90-92 Points from Jeb Dunnuck of Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate
Production: 815
Cheers
Yashar Shayan
Certified Sommelier
Founder, Impulse Wine